Wednesday, April 10, 2019

Bits & Bobs

Classes have officially ended. This has resulted in simultaneous bouts of exaltation and fear. When I'm not spending money carelessly on lunch with my friend, Phoebe, I sit down at my desk to relax and watch shitty Netflix rom-coms. (Note: yes, the syntax and clause in the previous sentence are both correct). Not rom-coms on Netflix. Netflix rom-coms. As in, made/produced by Netflix. I've hit an all-time low (or is it a high)?

Anyway, I sit at my desk noshing on unhealthy snacks, and despite having several outstanding assignments due, tonight I smile, ruminating on the fact that I just finished coursework for a masters degree and think: "Well! Thank goodness that's over."

...then I remember: my dissertation! What?! I have to basically write a book now? Who signed up for this?!

I did.

So, before I go ahead tell the world about female anxieties and maternal trauma in Shakespeare, here's a cool few things that have happened over the last few months.

...okay, maybe not cool things. But things all the same, in no particular order. Photos come at the end, though.


  1. The Grand National (Aintree) and Numerous Equine Fatalities
    Pardon the language, but what the fuck?! I'm still rather traumatized by this event, which I watched on live television. It's insane.
    See, I remember my dad used to enjoy horse racing back in New York; I quite liked helping him choose a horse to bet on based solely on whether or not the name of the horse appealed to me. I would also consistently choose horses with the worst odds, because who doesn't root for the underdog? ...underhorse? Whatever.
    Anyway, Colin wasn't kidding when he said the stakes were high at the Grand National. I hadn't heard of it before. I figured it was like the Kentucky Derby or something. I expected to see some fascinators and pretty mares.
    Nope. About forty or so horses line up together-- there's no gate or anything-- and then, in the blink of an eye, they're off. The whole thing takes about ten minutes and you're on the edge of your seat the entire time. There's about 30 fences or so. I'm not talking white picket fences, either.  The fences at Aintree, the highest of which is six feet tall, are topped with spruce. I guess it adds to the suspense when the horses leap and everything is is just flying everywhere: the spruce, the sweat, the helmets, the humans.  Seriously! This year, they hadn't even jumped the first fence when a jockey was dislodged from his horse and down they both went. Oh, and guess what? The horse gets shot in the head. Mother of God. Medics literally fly in from the sidelines with a gun and they (arguably mercifully? humanely?) put a bullet in its brain.

  2. A Driving Lesson
    Only one lesson for me so far. In a parking lot. The car stalled five or six times (which, to my credit, wasn't half bad). It's easy to forget the clutch when you're attempting to switch gears, and it's quite scary when the car lurches forward and then dies. Personally, I think I'm just fine with an automatic, but apparently there's a certain dignity that accompanies the wielding of a massive phallo-centric tool in your vehicle. Admittedly, it does take a lot more concentration and focus, but my mentality is: why make things harder for yourself?
    Unfortunately, I have an awful habit of making things harder for myself, so, my next lesson is on Saturday.

  3. Shrove Tuesday (or "Fat Tuesday")
    Again, it's probably just my ignorance showing, but the day before Lent starts everyone stuffs their faces with pancakes. Not the buttermilk, IHOP kind. No, these are the crΓͺpe-y kind. The traditional pancake is stuffed with sugar and lemon juice.  
    I'm told that "shrove" is derived from the middle english word "shriven," which has something to do with confessing sins. I'll tell you one thing: the amount of pancakes I consumed on Shrove Tuesday was definitely sinful.
  4. Saint Patrick's Day
    I've nothing to say on this front, really. I imagine it's like Times Square on New Years Eve. I'm glad I did it, but I'll never do it again. If I am here for Saint Patrick's Day next year, I'll head up to Belfast instead. The proddie part, just to avoid bachannalia.
  5. Belfast!
    Right. I nearly forgot. Drove up to Belfast. No one thought blasting "AmhrΓ‘n na bhFiann" at top volume was very funny. The peace wall isn't symbolic. No, it's literally there to keep the peace and is closed at 6PM nightly. There is a literal divide between the Catholics and Protestants.
    I went on a really cool black cab tour and got to see some of the famous, politically-charged murals. I feel like Blogger is a safe place to say that the Bobby Sands mural looked a bit like Janis Joplin, but I'm not fit to judge, and fair play to Bobby Sands for his fight to end British imperialism. If you take a little skip a few streets over to the Protestant end in Shankill, there's a massive tribute mural to deceased loyalist Stephen McKeag. He used to drive around at night, shoot people in the head (rather brutally and seneselessly, I'd say) while singing "Follow the Yellow Brick Road." I'd say we have the makes for a horror movie here, except this stuff was real. Real life horror.

  6. Matt Haig
    I'll skip the part where I tell you about my near-nervous breakdown in December and fast forward to the fun bit, where my friend Phoebe and I got to meet Matt Haig, author of Reasons to Stay Alive and more recently, Notes on a Nervous Planet. He asked me where I was from. I said New York. I had to repeat myself several times, as he kept and he kept thinking I said "Newark." I was rather insulted because I'd rather be from anywhere than New Jersey, but then I realized he was thinking Newark, like, in England. Needless to say, we were both confused. It was a great night.

  7. My First Night Club (Sort Of) 
    Coppers, notorious for being Dublin's #1 hookup destination, frequented by all sorts (it takes all sorts to make a sexually charged world, doesn't it) is a mainstay in the city, and people insist you go there, even if it's just for the "craic." I was tired of being told I had to go there so I could enjoy the novel experience of sexual objectification, so Phoebe and I went on a Tuesday night, paid the entrance fee, and enjoyed a completely empty dance floor. She hated it. I loved it. I'll never have to go there again.

  8. My First Letter to a Politician
    I have a weird obsession with President Michael D. Higgins and his two Bernese Mountain dogs. Michael D. is a renaissance man in every sense of the word. Former poet. Classy as hell. Looks like he works at Gringotts, and stands in line at the ATM just like the rest of us plebs. Several folks suggested I write to him with the hope he might pen me a note in return, as Ireland is a very small country and he'd surely get a kick out of the whole thing.
    As of today, he has not responded to my letter.
  9. Visited a Creepy Hospital to Collect Someone I met Once, and Posed with Jesus
    I don't think this really needs to be explained, does it?
    Okay, fine, I'll tell you.
    I met "John Smith" at a pub in Temple Bar, which I normally avoid at all costs (both pubs and Temple Bar, which is very difficult to do in Dublin). John Smith was endearing in the way he made numerous clumsy sexual advances to a very sober and very unenthused Brianna. John Smith was rather keen to get Brianna's phone number, but I would not provide it. Yeah, I'll stop talking in the third person now. Anyway, John Smith offers me his business card instead. Turns out he works for an extremely popular company. Yeah. I could read John Smith's face like a book.  I was promised a free lunch at aforementioned company. Poor guy was totally wasted and wouldn't remember a thing the next day. Thought it would be funny for me to e-mail him at work requesting the lunch.
    As it turns out, John Smith is actually a very nice and sensible person, although not sensible enough to ask someone else to collect him after having his wisdom teeth pulled. He had very few contacts in Ireland I guess, so he asked if I could take him home, and I obliged, because I'm obviously insane. The hospital was totally dead. No one cared where I was going. I found myself wandering in the direction of the morgue before I found the room John Smith was recovering in. I read a book as he watched football and ate unpalatable Jello until it was time to go home. Then, we took selfies with Jesus, and I took him home in a cab.
    And that was that.
  10. Went [True] West
    Phoebe runs a youth theatre group out in Kildare, and they were part of a national competition over in County Mayo. I tagged along and got to see the west of Ireland! I told my best friend that when he misses me and the distance seems enormous, just think that I'm simply on the other side of a very large room. When I got to Mayo and dipped a toe into the Atlantic, I called him and waved from the "other side." 


Me! In a car! 
Very nervous to be in Matt Haig's airspace.


A message for my grandmother on the Peace Wall in Belfast.

Only a New Yorker could fight her way through the crowds to the front of the parade.

Shrove Tuesday pancakes. The three pancakes I consumed prior to the taking of this photo are, obviously, not pictured.

Our ballot for the Grand National. My horse did not win. 

Me and Phoebe at Copper's. One of us is delighted the place is a ghost town. Hint: it's not Phoebe. 

Posting my letter to Michael D. Higgins!

Jesus.

Monday, February 25, 2019

"Why Do You Like Dublin?" (In No Particular Order)

People ask me all the time: "Do you even like Dublin?" It's always difficult for me to answer. I'm either in the throes of depression or complaining about something (my program, lack of housing/jobs, whatever). Most times, after a considerable period of silence, I stammer: "Well, it's beautiful." No one (myself included) sounds convinced. The truth is, however, despite the hardships I've faced since arriving, there are a ton of things I like Dublin. In fact, I love Dublin. 

 πŸš˜ πŸš™ πŸš¦ LICENSE PLATES!🚦 ⛽ πŸš™ πŸš˜
License plates in [the Republic of] Ireland are formatted in a really curious way. First of all, the license plate on a car will never change. This is because plates are associated with the car itself, not the owner. License plates remain with the car for the duration of its life, both on and off the road. License plates also have fun "coding." Take these examples:
YY (OR YYY) - CC - SSSSSS
00-D-8976
19-TN-040
99-RN-5962
131-W-908
The first two digits  = the year the car was manufactured. 
  • 00 = 2000
  • 19 = 2019
  • 99 = 1999
  • 131 = 2013 (*split into two times of issue; this registration indicates the car was registered during the first half of the year) 
The letter[s] comprising the second part of the plate = the county in which the car is registered. (Note this is county, not province.  When I first discovered the meaning (or coding, as I like to think of it) of license plates here, I vowed to learn all the county codes so I could really feel like a local. I don't know why, but it brings me great joy. I play the game every time I see a car, and it's great fun. Kind of like "I Spy," but with license plates. Some are easier to guess than others, and the Irish name is written above them (so if you don't know Gaelic, you're out of luck). 
  • D = Dublin (Baile Átha Cliath)
  • TN = ...a difficult one. Larger counties are often divided by north/south. In this case, we are looking at Tipperary North. (Tiobraid Árann Thuaidh)
  • RN = Roscommon (Ros ComΓ‘in) 
  • W = Waterford. Another tough one. There are several counties that begin with "W." Waterford. Wexford. Major counties/cities, like Galway or Limerick, tend to get one letter. Furthermore, you can deduce W is wexford by its translation (Port LΓ‘irge) ...large port? 


🐷 O'BRIENS' HAM & CHEESE TOASTIES! 🐷
No tomato, no red onion. Brown bread. Served with crisps on the side (almost always cheese and onion, a flavour unique to Ireland, it seems...and very different from sour cream and onion). 

🌊 πŸšƒ COASTLINE VIEWS FROM TRAINS πŸšƒ 🌊
Regardless of your destination, you're bound to see an arresting coastline. 

🐦 SEAGULLS πŸ¦ 
Their existence, and their incessant squawking. They also remind me I'm surrounded by the sea on all sides. 
 πŸ•‘ IRISH TIME πŸ•‘
This one I can only really tell by example. Last weekend I traveled to Co. Mayo with a friend. We agreed to meet at 9AM in the breakfast room of our hotel. I was there at 8:45. I saw her as I finished up my breakfast around 10AM.

"I thought we agreed on 9?"
"Yes, we did." She proceeded to go for some eggs.

⛈ ☔  RAIN ⛈ ☔
I love it. It rains almost daily, never for longer than an hour at a time. I enjoy darting in and out of shops along O'Connell street to avoid getting wet; I love weaving my way through entrances and exits, getting farther and farther as I go. 

πŸŽ₯πŸŽ¨πŸŽ­πŸ“šπŸŽƒ  FESTIVAL VOLUNTEERING πŸŽ₯πŸŽ¨πŸŽ­πŸ“šπŸŽƒ
There's a great sense of community in Dublin. To combat depression and fill up some free time, I volunteer for festivals and events constantly. After a chance encounter with the Volunteers Coordinator of the Dublin Fringe Festival, I was suddenly "in" on the scene. The same individual coordinates most of the major festivals in Dublin, and because this city is so damn small, you'll easily find that the more you volunteer, the more you encounter the same faces. I've been exposed to so much of a Dublin-specific culture (well, Dublin has so many niche cultures) as a result of volunteering. I've been inside the church where Bram Stoker got married. I wore face paint and hula hooped with kids in front of St. Patrick's Cathedral. I've met theatre artists and filmmakers; I've carried home more free books than I could fit in my room. I've really honed my application and interview skills, too. Here are all of the festivals I've worked in a mere six months:

  • The Dublin Fringe Festival
  • Dublin Bram Stoker Festival
  • The Dublin Book Festival
  • The Virgin Media International Film Festival (Dublin)

πŸ₯‡πŸ₯ˆπŸ₯‰  HONORABLE MENTION[S] πŸ₯‡πŸ₯ˆπŸ₯‰
  • FATHER TEDTechnically a British comedy series, Father Ted is one of those amazing shows only possible in the 90s. It's about three Irish priests living off the coast of rural Ireland and all the crazy shenanigans they get themselves into. Read more about Father Ted, starring the late Dermot Morgan, online here. Fun fact: show co-creator creator Graham Linehan would go on to conceive and write the much-successful (but short-lived) IT CROWD series...another favorite of mine.

  • FROST ON THE GRASS IN THE COUNTRYSIDE, SPECIFICALLY IN THE EARLY HOURS OF THE MORNING (NAMELY, AT MY FRIEND PHOEBE'S HOUSE) 
  • CHOPPEDI love their Dubliner Caesar salad. I add avocado, tomato, peppers, olives
  • BROWN BREADReal, proper brown bread.
  • THE ABUNDANCE OF PUBLIC PARKS
  • GARY P., UNINEST EMPLOYEE
    Gary is like a father to me, and it's been that way ever since I moved into my residence hall. He's one of the most special people I've ever met. Sometimes, when I'm feeling especially low, I think to myself: "Well, if I hadn't come to Ireland, I wouldn't have met Gary."
  • GOING BACK TO NEW YORK
    Living 3,000 miles away from the city I grew up in makes returning to it that much sweeter. New York City is part of me, and so are all of the people and experiences in it. 

     

Wednesday, February 13, 2019

To Mom, on Valentine's Day

I tried, unsuccessfully, to order flowers from that fancy company I used in the past, but there's always an issue at checkout. Coupon codes-- you know how it is. Code not recognized. It's a verification thing, even though they sent me an e-mail hours before with a great offer, and my order met all the absurd criteria.  It's not that I'm above paying full-price, especially when it comes to you. I'd chop off my arm to make you happy. It's more the principle of it all. You know how I get in these impossible situations. The situations where I can't resist or fight back. Life's little injustices that tug at my shirt and nag at me all day long. I was on my laptop, fuming. They set me up. In this case there was no manager or customer service agent I could harass, so the whole operation was largely a fail. My back hurt and I fell asleep with the thought: I'll come up with something better tomorrow.



I briefly entertained the thought of going with a local florist in New York, but there was no predicting how that would turn out. Finally-- like most people who resort to flowers as a predominately ineffectual way to communicate a deep and unabiding love for another person-- I realized they're utterly and pathetically trite.

Well, most of the time.  Flowers are actually kind of great. You're the only person who has ever sent me flowers the way it happens in movies. Special delivery style. I'm certain as hell that no man has ever done that for me. I wonder if someone ever will? I know what you're thinking: of course someone will. I will begrudgingly wait for that person to come along no matter how long it takes, and thank you for setting a standard.




Now that I'm older, I also know (and perhaps to an extent, always knew) that I am not the person who should get you flowers on Valentine's Day. It's not my job. It's not my place.  Yet, in keeping with our natural order of things, I just want[ed] to make you happy the way you make me happy.

That got me thinking.

What is my place? What has, historically, been my place?  In your life. For you. With you.

In my view, my place has always been to stand beside you. Literally and figuratively. When I stand beside you, it is on your left side. This, as you well know, is a custom carried over from childhood. This was back when you smoked, so I wouldn't inhale the fumes. To this day, I always have to walk on the left side of another person. It feels very uncomfortable to walk on someone's right side. I simply can't do it.

Shifting gears a bit, here: I also stand beside you without hesitation in any given circumstance. Life has thrown a lot of crazy shit our way, and one thing I've been proud of is that you're the only person I am not afraid to stand beside.

I mean it, mom. You could blindfold me and lead me barefoot into fire. Not only would I trust you, but I would follow you.  I would willingly endure the pain with you.



I've been wanting to ask you something for a while. It takes a bit of longwinded explaining, so bear with me. (< P.S., thanks to you, I know Shakespeare created that phrase for Lear).  When grandma died at that awful nursing home and they led us to that horrific basement Twilight Zone-style, there was hardly enough room for the both of us to fit in the closet where they kept her. Remember? Of course you do. She barely fit. Her cot was diagonal because the door wouldn't close if they put her in lengthwise. Out of respect for her, I won't go into further detail about what happened next. Not really. I know she wouldn't want people to remember her like that, and for some reason I'm extremely possessive of that moment, even though I've talked through it with you and our family numerous times. Even though grandma was there, the moment was ours. No one will ever be able to truly know what it was like. You and I have a lot of moments like that...but I digress.



With your usual determination, you told the porter to give us a moment alone. You told me, while looking into the closet, that you wanted to see grandma's face. You told me I didn't have to unless I wanted to. I vacillated for a moment, unsure of what my place was. Your mother passed away. did I even have the right to follow you? Then again, we've always been in everything together, and in my gut I knew you wouldn't have asked me if you didn't mean it.

Then you spoke again, halting my racing thoughts:

"I don't know what she's going to look like. It could be scary."

Here's the thing. Of course I wanted to follow you...and I did. For several reasons. I will always be glad we did that together. I have no regrets.

My question for you, though, is this: did you ever think for a second that I wouldn't follow you?

Honestly, despite fooling myself into going back and forth about it in my head, there was never a question that I wouldn't follow you. Ever.



Particularly since moving to Dublin, I've observed a change in our relationship. It's a change that confirms, at least to some degree, that I'm an adult (which is reassuring). I was a perceptive kid, and that hasn't changed. It's not like I've gained some acute sense of awareness that I lacked before. Rather, in a state of being aware, there is a greater sense of reciprocity in the urge to follow you always. You told me what was true: her face could look scary. As two adults, our vulnerability had nowhere to hide. I saw yours and you saw mine.

It was all so surreal that I was actually totally calm. When you lifted the sheet and we gazed at her, it was ostensibly scary, but I wasn't at all scared. It was grandma. It was you, and it was me. I never felt more love between the three of us than in that moment. She'd hate me for saying that because we have a ton of great memories, but whatever.




My desire to hold, watch, feel and care for you has only increased with time. When you left Dublin in August, it was me watching you go past the gate. I watched you long after you couldn't see me anymore. It was you who, for the first time, did not look up and expect to still be standing there. But I was, just in case, in case you needed me.

I know what you're thinking, mom: I've failed her. I should have looked back.

No, you did not fail me. You never have, never could, and never will. You certainly did not disappoint me.   In fact, as I stood there watching you take off your shoes and put them on the conveyor belt, I noticed you had stopped crying. I was so delighted to see that! That meant you knew I was going to be okay (you told me you didn't have any doubts, but it was still nice to see it on your face).

I felt so proud to be standing there on two sturdy legs watching you. Distance is relative, isn't it? They wouldn't in a million years let me through to the other side of the glass to embrace you one last time, so it was essentially viewing you through the same chasm as I would when I videochat you in New York. Even though you were already gone, grief didn't wash over me the way I expected it would. That's not to say it wouldn't later. There have been many nights without sleep, without comfort, without you. At the airport, however, I felt truly confident for the first time in my life.  You want to know why? It's because of all the confidence I have confidence in us. That is the greatest gift you have ever given me. Us.

I know the past few weeks (okay, months, really) have been difficult for you. My depression and anxiety have worsened. You are busy wtih work, preparing to move houses and a million other things. I sense frustration in your voice when you send me resources and tell me to get help. You know you can't save me from myself...that is, my self-hate, the torment, the depression. You can't force me to enjoy being alone. You can't hold me when you want to hold me or when I want to be held.



Yet none of this is failure. Far from it. Even in the darkest throes of depression...the moments I really, truly want to die, I get up anyway. It's all because of you. I know you say I need to start living a life for myself. Learn to like myself. I'm trying, and I think I've made tremendous progress. Still, though, you need to know this because it is so fucking important: you give me the faith I need to trust myself, like myself, and start again. Thank you. My faith begins with you. It always has. You admire me for being resilient, which I can only laugh at. What choice do I have when I've got you as a mother? Who wouldn't be strong for you? To have you and to keep you?



I've said this one and I'll say it again: you've given me life many, many times.  The reasons I've ever wanted to die have always been because I'm not good enough for myself. The sustaining thing, the calming thing, is that I have always been good enough for you, and the thing that keeps me sleeping okay is knowing that there's no such thing as failure because you will aways be proud of me. Is there a greater love than that?



I go back and forth about wanting a child someday. I'm sitting here and now I'm almost positive I do. People tell me I would make a great mom. If I could share even the tiniest ounce of love I've felt and received from you like a flower to the sun all these years excites me. You're imbued in every thought, every action, every moment of my life. It's in everything from the way I treat others, to the position I sleep in at night, to the way I add smiley faces to my signature. How wonderful it would be to share that great feeling with someone else. Someone of my own.



We both know Valentine's Day is stupid, but we also both want to be showered with love (don't deny it). I hope you get flowers, but part of moving to Ireland was me reaching the conclusion-- or more accurately, the realization-- that I'm not always the person in your life to do that.


I've written about you so many times. In high school, I remember my favorite English teacher once told us the most difficult thing to write about is love, and no one has ever gotten it right. ...because if someone did, perhaps they'd stop writing about it. It's tremendously difficult for me to write about love, but ironically, not dificult for me to write about life. So, in this brief post about love, I want to remind you how much life you've given me, over and over again.


I love you.

Monday, January 28, 2019

Windmills

I ask a station attendant if I can exit the platform for a coffee (what I really mean is a hot chocolate). Otherwise I've got a long wait on platform 3. I'm an hour early for my train to Skerries.
The man lets me through. In a good-natured tone, says he'll check my bag on the way back in. I'm used to the art of slagging now, and enjoy doing it myself on occasion. Always have. One good thing about Ireland is that it gave me a name for something I've been doing habitually (and with great enthusiasm) since I could talk: shitting on people, but with love.

I briefly consider taking a seat on the benches, but my mind wanders...think of all the people who sat on this bench. The germs. They will eat me alive. They will consume me.

So much for radical self-transformation. I thought a week after my breakup I'd be a new woman again. Adventures on my own. Living with myself, for myself. Doing all my readings for class. Cooking food. Cleaning my room every day.

Some might disagree, but in my own way, I'm trying. Not as hard as I should, but I'm out of bed, and to me that is something. I mentioned that to a young woman in group therapy the other day (more to come on that). We were both there for the first time, wondering what the fuck we were doing. I told her: hey, at least we did it. At least we recognized we needed to fix something. Even if we are ill-equipped to fix it.

The truth is, I have not been living. I'm not sure when I stopped living. Depression never goes away, so it's hard to tell. It ebbs and flows, and learning to manage it is tremendously important. I am poor at managing my depression, but fantastic at faking it.

For example, as I write this in the lobby of my dormitory, the chipper receptionist (who also goes by Bri) asks what brought me here. To Ireland. To this room. For a minute, I'm fine. Then it occurs to me that I'm sitting in the lobby of my dormitory. On a Saturday night. While people are out. Having fun.

...and out it comes. Rushed half-sentences. Well, I'm in the dorm because my boyfriend of five years left me a week before we were due to move to Ireland. That was in August. Yeah, he's living in Spain now. No, I'm not doing schoolwork at the moment. I have my laptop because I'm trying to work on a personal blog. I'm not really focusing on school because I'm unhappy. The Course Director left. Three professors resigned. The Chair stepped down. I don't have many friends. The guy I was seeing broke it off last week because I'm too emotional. My parents back in New York are moving out of their house. I have a dog. Hey, do you want to see him? Yeah, I really miss him.

I decide to stop it there. 

"That's quite a time you're having," she says affirmatively.

I resist crying. Whenever someone acknowledges I've been through a tunnel of shit, I cry. The impulse is to thank them for understanding. People have been through far worse, and I'm sure in my lifetime I will endure worse. Right now, though, there's no exit. There is no hope. I think it's a level playing field for anyone who suffers, especially when there is no hope and you’re searching fruitlessly and can't find it.

Bri plays some Bryan Adams and offers me the Irish cure for most ailments (particularly depression, which is known colloquially here as "low mood"): chocolate.

Sweet girl.

Anyway, back to the weekend:

If this were Heuston Station (Dublin's second commuter hub), I could pop into Eason's or any number of stores, really, and pass the time eyeing titles of books I'll never read. Connolly Station, on the other hand-- where I am-- is a lot like the Port Authority in New York: it's nothing more than a dirty funnel.

I wander towards a coffee kiosk-- the type that serves pre-wrapped croissants, cigarettes and day-old newspapers. I look up towards the sky and see it won't be long before it starts to lash. What am I doing? I pick at a scab on my hand until it starts to bleed – until I start peeling at the good skin. What am I doing?

I order the hot chocolate and use my debit card to pay for it. Ireland has contactless payment. This means you can tap your card against a machine and a hot chocolate is paid for like magic. Presto! It's a dangerous system, particularly when you're in a shop that's having a sale, for instance. It doesn’t help when the money on that plastic card is basically infinite because it isn't even real money. It's student loans. I don't even think about paying them off. I can barely live in the moment. I'm lucky I can stammer out an order for a hot chocolate.

I'll be a hypocrite if I ask for low fat milk (no such thing as nonfat milk in Ireland... God knows I've tried to find it), especially because I've said yes to marshmallows and cream. I typically don't take whipped cream on anything, but today I've vowed to say "yes" to everything. That rom-com kind of attitude. The Eat Pray Love type thing. This does not bode well. It's going to be a disaster. My life is not a book. My life is not a movie. My life is not anything.

The perky guy behind the counter is obscenely energetic and I want nothing more than to collapse into his arms and weep. This is how I know I'm not myself. If I were myself, I'd probably want to hug him, smack him, or both.

He asks if I want sprinkles, and for a moment I'm taken aback.

"...like on ice cream?" I almost say yes. It sounds like a great idea. Rainbow sprinkles melting into hot chocolate! He smiles broadly. His English is not quite up to par and he places articles where he doesn't have to: "The cinnamon? The noot-ah-meg?" 

Oh. Nevermind. I smile back with all the effort I can muster and decline.

I'd be miserable working a coffee kiosk at some dirty train station. I invent a whole narrative for the perky guy, and force myself to walk away before I get invested in a story that isn't even real. If only I were this committed to the narrative of my own life.


My next stop is the newsstand. I grab a notebook, as I'm determined to find inspiration today. This time I look for coins in my wallet. I don't use contactless payment because I need to interact with someone. As I search for money, I ask the teenager behind the counter how his day is going.

"Not great." He scratches his head.

"Yeah. Me either." 

"Yeah."

There is no reason to stay now. I have my change. The transaction is over. I clear my throat.

"Is there a line behind me? Oh, good, no, I'm just going to put this in my bag..."

"Take your time."

My wallet is back in my bag. I really have to leave.

"Well, I hope your day improves!” I tell him. “Mine most certainly will not."

I get him to smile at least. Is he weirded out by me? Is he intrigued?

I stare intently at the arrivals/departures screen, feigning as much purpose as possible, as if I'd even recognize the names of any of the townships listed there. I keep thinking about how stupid this all is, yet there's also an intense urge to catch an earlier train to anywhere, absolutely anywhere. It's as if my body can't wait long enough to get out, past the city centre and platform 3.

Perhaps I should have gone elsewhere, somewhere I have no connection to. Skerries is where my [now] ex-boyfriend's mother lived; he wanted to take me there, it's "quite peaceful-like." I chose Skerries for my expedition this afternoon, aching for any sense of purpose beyond making it through the moment. I have no connections in this country. Nothing I can call mine. Skerries doesn't belong to me. I shouldn't be going there. It's someone else's special place, imbued with his memories. I'm always hopelessly, mercilessly attached to the life of another. A life that isn't mine to touch, prod, caress or rebuke. 

The train is late. Is it a sign I should abort mission? A code red? The alternative is to retreat. To my room.

There are so many people around me. Why must they all crowd together in one massive heap? Surely there's more than one train car. I move down platform 3 and they follow. Children of the Corn type shit.

I am a bottle rocket. I am going to explode. Right here, right now. It's like the sensation of needing to vomit. The sweating. Shaking. Just hold it together until-- when? Until there's an open window? Until the people who aren't going away are gone? En route from Kildare to Dublin last week, my friend's dad drove me to get my antidepressants. They didn't want me staying alone, as I was both emotionally and physically ill. Terrible nausea. I remember holding my head in my hands and clutching the door of the car. Leaning my head against the window. Counting. Telling myself the toilet isn't far. I can hold it in.

I ran for the hills as soon as we got to my dorm, and when I reached the toilet, nothing came out. No vomit at all.

Incidentally, one of the first creative pieces I ever wrote was a poem called "Vomit." My stepfather insists it is his favorite piece of writing. I don't even think I have copy of "Vomit."

If you hadn't guessed, I write this a few days after nearly having an nervous breakdown. Once all major crises were averted (I stopped eating and drinking for five days) my mom messaged me the truth, which is always hard to accept, but it is so, so good:

I would pat yourself on the back for not being suicidal or having a nervous breakdown. It really could've been a nervous breakdown for many a lesser woman. I continue to believe you are in Ireland for very specific reasons, not the least of which is to discover yourself. The good. The bad. The acceptable. How to live successfully in this little self-made home. I think it's a tough gig but I also think you wouldn't be where you are literally and metaphorically if you weren't up to the challenge.

Back to platform 3: all these people are going to get a seat. We are all capable of boarding a train. Why do I feel this worried? Could they guess it if they looked at me? You know, that I'm so anxious? That I am breaking? Maybe I'll just seem cynical, nearly to the point of being charming. I'm always charming when my heart is about to spill out of my mouth.

Where the fuck is this train? I need a good cry on some cold Irish beach.

I text my [now] ex-boyfriend. It's like cocaine. Not that I've ever tried cocaine. ...but I would imagine that's what it's like. I can't get enough. He needs to be thinking of me. He must. Surely, he must. I need to make him think of me. He can't forget me. I send a text. I pretend to be cheerful. Like I'm living in a world made up of happy coincidences, not orchestrated events:

"As the universe would have it, I find myself in Skerries today for a conference."

A conference. Right. A conference to nowhere, meeting with my fucked up psyche. The one I wish I could kick out of my bed and my room and Dublin and Ireland and the universe all in one shot. I ask if he has a restaurant recommendation for my "limited spare time after the conference." I'm hoping he'll tell me something about his mother, give me a personal anecdote.

After a few minutes, all I get a link. No message. It's a restaurant called Stoop Your Head.

I browse the menu online. Wait, why doesn't he remember that I don't like seafood?

Whatever. At least I have a destination. The train eventually arrives. I hop off at in Skerries and plug Stoop Your Head into my phone. The robotic voice dominates over my music; turn left here, turn right there. In between all this, I search for a good song. I skip songs that have anything to do with love, sadness, hope or happiness. Which is to say I'm skipping pretty much all the music I've got. Even the decent breakup songs are too painful. I guess no music is going to work because I can't bear to feel anything.

Suddenly, something catches my eye. Like a moth to a flame, I follow it.

Maps, however, does not approve.

"Proceed to the route." I turn up a dirt path.

"Proceed to the route." Ascend a hill.

"Proceed to the route." Cross the desolate road for a better view.

I can't really describe what happens next. I’m running now.


In the brilliant Reasons to Stay Alive, which I bought just last week (yes, in case you were wondering, I continue to look for reasons to stay alive and welcome your suggestions, but I've no intent to take my own life. There is a difference between being severely depressed and being suicidal…sometimes, being severely depressed is far worse). Author Matt Haig describes a depressive episode in which he cried in front of his father at the age of twenty-four, staring out his window:

I cried. Yet, weirdly, depression didn't make me cry that often, considering how bad it was. I think it was the surreal nature of what I was feeling. The distance. Tears were a kind of language and I felt all language was far away from me. I WAS beneath tears [...] But now, they came. And not normal tears either. Not the kind that start behind the eyes. No. These came from the deep. They seemed to come from my gut, my stomach was trembling so much.
I'm face-to-face with a windmill. I've never seen one before. It is so...novel. Had I killed myself last week, or had I not taken the train and stayed in bed taking sleep aids in the daytime, I wouldn't have seen the windmill today. So came a deluge of tears. There wasn't a soul around to see me, either. Real tears. From the gut. Deep from within, parts of me I didn't think were alive. A gasp-cry. A shudder cry. The kind that doesn't stop; the kind when a mom holds you close to her bosom, smothering your head, telling you it's going to be alright, your cut will soon turn into a bruise and then it will be gone altogether.

In this case it's just that the whole fucking world has bruised me, it really has, but I am so fucking relieved that something, anything, gave me feeling. Delight. The windmill made me feel something besides darkness.

That's the thing about depression. That's why it's so demonic and terrifying. People often refer to it as an intense sadness. It may be that way for some. For me, the sadness is preceded by an intense black wall of impossibility. I used to describe it as attempting to walk forward in the dark, with my hands outstretched in front of me, bravely, but touching a wall on all sides. There's nowhere to go.

Anyway, the crying doesn't last very long.

Fun fact: I will later come up the same hill but from the opposite direction, and things will all start to make sense. I will have made a circle. For now, though, since I've no idea where I am, I turn back the way I came and onto the main road.

Windmill in Skerries, Co. Dublin

I walked and walked. Petrol stations. My music is turned off. I listen only to cars whoosh by, and the sound of Maps guiding me to Stoop Your Head. Maybe it has a really cool hobbit door or something. I'm pretty short, so will I have to stoop my head?

Oh, and it rains! So hard. It rains. It stops. It rains again. The sun comes out. Skerries is supposed to be a seaside town, and at first I find it unsettling that there is no seaside. ...but Maps will get me there. I walk uphill until without warning, between two houses and two cars, I saw a tiny bit of a blue sparkle. I feel like a kid. I absolutely cannot wait. I debate running through the driveway to see it better, but I keep to maps until the world opens up for me again, and there is nothing but sea.

Next to parts of the Grand Canyon I've seen in Arizona, Skerries is absolutely the most beautiful place I've ever seen. I don't know why. In my mind I compare it to Howth, which is ostensibly quite similar: one long strip, some restaurants, one or two gift shops. Boats docked.

Skerries, though, totally and completely arrests me. It has nothing to do with my former boyfriend. Skerries is a conquest. I see the shoreline go as far as my eye can see, and around a bend. I will reach the end. I see Stoop Your Head in the distance. The rain comes down harder. I reach the door. It's a normal-sized door, not a hobbit door. It swings open. In I go. Like a cowboy into a saloon.

It's funny how some people stare at you when you're alone. Especially when you order a rib eye at a seaside restaurant with a heavy American accent some ten miles from the nearest train station and proceed to eat only the bed of mushroom and onions underneath. Not to mention you take up a whole even though other people are waiting (you know, families, and you're just a single person) because God knows even though families are waiting to be seated you certainly didn't travel all this way to sit at the bar with your back turned to the sea.

I stay at Stoop Your Head as long as possible. Every time I think I'm ready to go, I am both galvanized and paralyzed by the horror of having nowhere to go. That, of course, and the rain.

The universe is fucking with me; the rain starts up again like mad each time I stand.

There's two women beside me chatting away. Whenever I'm in public places-- particularly restaurants-- I can't shut off this seventh sense that enables me to hear other conversations acutely and listen to discussions I'm not part of. I hear them better and more clearly than any conversation I may be participating in.

I assume these two women are friends, though distant friends maybe, as it's the end of January and they are catching up about their Christmas holidays. Woman A dominates the conversation. Almost always, in my estimation, when two women are in a room together, there's an undercurrent of competition. The poison of besting the best. Woman A reaches across the table to give her daughter a french fry.


WOMAN A: "Oh, dear, I nearly forgot you were there, love, sit down. Please, sit down. Stop looking at the sea."

WOMAN A: "Budapest. Have you been? No? Oh, such a pity. Let me show you where we slept."

Woman A reaches in the depths of her bag for a cell phone.

WOMAN B: "Well, I've been to France..."

WOMAN A: "Oh, God, I'd never go to France now. Not the way it is now. You know, the way it is now? Thankfully I went before it got the way it is now. Terrible, really. The way it is now."

WOMAN B: "Sure, sure--"

WOMAN A: "But you know what? All you have is the now."

I absolutely force myself to stop listening. Instead, I engage them in a challenge with my eyes. I look at them, they look at me. I look away. They wonder who this bacteria of a human is. Where did she come from? And without an umbrella? Eventually the women leave.

The last thing I hear is Woman A, with her young child in tow:


"Life sure is shit, isn't it?" 


The next two diners to sit at the table beside me are a welcomed change. It's a paunchy African woman wearing an ornate headdress, and an elderly Irish man. He's dressed in a tweed blazer. She is his caretaker. I don't assume this. She asserts it. It is almost as if they are talking so I can hear. The old man looks in my direction and I smile. I can't help it. Old men always make me smile. They're like kids.

"Pay attention," she tells him dotingly, hitting his hand softly. "It is not polite to stare."

A comfortable beat passes between them. She shifts her massive weight and looks around for a server.

"I am going back to Africa, soon, you know."

"Oh! Can I come?"

"No. There would be no one to care for you there. But I will be back."

"Do they speak English there?"

"Of course they do. You need to change your perspective."

"Do they have beef in Africa?"

Pinot Grigio arrives. She takes the bottle.

"Can I pour that for you?" she asks him (even though she's already pouring).

"If you wish." He turns to me. "I'm spoiled."

"You deserve it," I tell him. I don't know why, but I'm pretty sure he deserves it. Something tells me he deserves it.

She pours the Pinot Grigio and he laments the colonization of Ireland. She reminds him how the world has changed since he last knew it. She says the reason this restaurant serves haddock, for example, is because of the English. Haddock makes the world a better place.

After a sip, he tells her: "You ought to have a boyfriend."

"If I had a boyfriend now it would distract me from doing my job."

I return to my steak. 

When is the right time to leave, really? Leave this restaurant? Leave Skerries? Leave the world? 

Not even die, really. Just leave. Kind of like the steak. That's life. I had a bite. It really isn't for me. It's not to my liking. Not my taste.


I'm hoping for a nice moment, an adorable quote from the old man I can exit on and carry in my pocket for the rest of the day. Anything but "Life is shit, isn't it?"

Alas, it doesn't come. I hope they will ask me where I'm from, but they do not. I get up when it was raining and leave. I turn towards the ocean, away from the train station, and walk. I dive into a shop as the rain gets harder. Mill and sieve. Mill and sieve. In and out. In and out.

I reach the actual beach and get my second hot chocolate of the day from an ice scream stand, which to its credit, is in full operation despite it being the middle of winter. A girl and her dad order ice cream sundaes. Power to them. It's a dismal Irish day and the pink facade of the ice cream stand and disco ball in it are both sparks of life against barren wasteland. I clutch the cup for for warmth and proceed down the beach.

I see a lot of amazing things. The first thing, besides the ocean, is an old man swimming. In January. I'm not joking. Bright pink bottoms. Nothing but a towel to dry himself off. No coat. He jokingly asks if I want to join.

I tell him I can't even swim at all. He welcomes me to Ireland and reminds me that swimming is good for your health, but only if you do it in freezing water. I remind him I have to learn to swim first. Then, maybe, I'll work my way up to swimming in deep, cold waters.

I proceed down the line as a determined traveler. It's like The Canterbury Tales. Whose story will I hear next? I soon encounter Rory. He has two dogs, both off leash. He hoists himself over some rocks and looks down towards the ocean.

"Did you drop something?" I ask.

"I'm looking for the rabbits."

I have a brief aside. Remember my favorite book? Of Mice and Men. Tell me about the rabbits.

He explains there are rabbits down by the water. He leaves them carrots every day, and they eat them overnight.

"You probably won't see them now. It's too cold. What brings you to Skerries?"

"Uh, a friend of mine. A friend. Yes. A friend. Used to live here. I'm from New York. Yeah."

I pet the dogs, ask the names of the dogs. I'm on autopilot but by God, I'm trying.

"What brings you to Ireland from New York?"

Immediately, I freak out, as if he touched me inappropriately or something, which he certainly hasn't. The dogs tense and growl.

"New York? How did you know I'm from New York?"

Rory blinks, and stares at me blankly. "...because you just told me."

"Oh, right. Right!"

He brings the dogs in close.

"Well, Brianna, best we be going. Enjoy your time in Skerries."

I watch him down the coastline. Later, I see him paces ahead, the dogs down on the beach playing in the sand. Dogs in Ireland actually fetch, you know. With sticks and everything. Over great distances. It never ceases to amaze me.


My third and final human revelation(s) take the form of two children. On bicycles. What have they to teach me?

Well, initially I'm a bit worried about how far the parents let their youngest, a girl, go ahead. They remind her to avoid obstacles (the obstacle being, naturally, me). Let people pass, they say. She stops her pink bicycle and waits for her brother to catch up. They look out at the sea. I like to imagine they're taking the sea in, questioning the meaning of life, but they're really just waiting for their parents. They are too young to absorb sea, I think. Plus, they see this every day probably. They carry on. I photograph a bench and the reflection of the puddle around it.

A momentary pause.


After a while I reach the end of the beach. I decide to avoid using Maps to get me back to the train station. What's the worst that can happen? I get lost? My phone has battery...for now There will be a train. Or maybe there won't be. Hey, there was that one time in Waterford with my mom. We missed the last train to Dublin. Caught a bus instead. I'll never forget that. The desperation. Not knowing what to do or how to proceed. It was the day before she was due to leave. We laughed about it as we waited for a bus at sunset. The trip back to Dublin would take three times as long. We lost a great many hours that day. It was the first time my mother admitted she would miss me. She cried. She absolutely cried. I cherished every second of it.



I wish my mom were here to see Skerries. I find myself approaching the windmills again. They are closed for the day, but I enter the grounds anyway. I missed the damn windmills by a half hour. Can you believe that? I stand there anyway, just looking. I'm not sure for how long.

Eventually, I board a train in the opposite direction. Deliberately. Towards Drogheda, wherever that is. Why? The next train to Dublin isn't due for another 36 minutes and I can't bear to stand still for so long. I need to keep moving.

Why am I the way I am? I'm in a new country. Get it together. How can you call this suffering, when some people don't get to travel at all? This is not suffering, Brianna. People are starving. You're just depressed. You're just stupid. And ugly. And yeah, you have back pain. Whatever. A boy left you. Many boys left you. So many. They abandoned you. They decided to forget you because you are not special enough. You don't deserve to be here. At Trinity. In Ireland. You never deserve to be anywhere. Who cares about the friends who don't talk to you anymore? You're better off. Who cares about trauma? Who cares about the constant feeling of needing to vomit? I'm crazy. I am fucking crazy.

I reread my the rest of my mom's text:
You are Brianna Clark, with all the history, not all peaches and cream but not all horrible. You are Brianna Clark, with the history, the emotions and feelings. You are kind, you a re sensitive in the world that bruises you. Build your armor and your shields. You are your mother's daughter. And your mother is her mother's daughter: strong, opinionated, loving, passionate, intense, never knowing when to keep her mouth shut. Women with backbone ten times that of any man in their life. I want you to know that. You are not crazy.
I am not crazy.

Nevertheless, it has been decided: I will never return to Skerries.

This train is older than the previous one. I keep my bags close. We stop at Drogheda. I cross to the other side of the platform to make my way back. A man sits across from me. He studies a script. Practices his lines. He uses the method I was taught in high school. It's a common method, but it brings back fond memories of my acting days: a blank sheet of paper over the block of text, line by line, until you get it right. You can't proceed to the next line until you get the ones before it down perfectly. I see the names "Eddie" and "Beatrice" and know immediately he's working on Arthur Miller.

Hold on. Is this a famous actor? I search "View from the Bridge, Dublin" and get no results on my phone.

It takes the entire train ride for me to work up the courage, but I do it as we're both alighting:

"Are you in A View from the Bridge? Where?"

"It's community theatre."

I tell him I'd like to see it. God bless community theatre. God bless anyone, really, who makes time for that and does something that gives them heart.

He hands me a program. "Are you sure you'd like to see it? We're all very excited for the premiere."

"Sure I will. I promise. Where is it?"

"Oh, it's in Skerries."

Fucking. Skerries. I tell him I will certainly go. My mind drifts to my boyfriend. Well, it doesn't drift, because my boyfriend hasn't left my head at all.

I said I'd come back to this: not three days earlier, before Skerries but after my breakup, I went to my first self-help group therapy meeting where the immediate hopes were, in no particular order:
  • a) to not die by my own hand 
  • b) stop stalking my ex
  • c) stop thinking about my ex
It was like AA, but for all sorts of fucked up people. I gave a fake name at the door, not for embarrassment, but because I happen to volunteer for the program I'm about to engage in. As a mentor. I am a joke. I mean, seriously. You have to admit in a twisted way that it's funny. I later tell them my real name. When I decide to speak. When I speak, I weep again. And again. And again.

The volunteer coordinator just looks at me, as if she can't fathom what just happened. "You were early. We chatted. I never would have guessed you were dealing with this."

You'd think I told her I just learned I have a terminal illness.

"There's just a lot going on," I stay between hiccups.

That's always my default answer. A lot going on. I say this to people who ask me how I'm doing. People who ask me why I'm crying for no reason. Store clerks as I try on a bra in the fitting room and they mention how I look a lot like their daughter, who has always wanted to go to New York.

"Why are you crying?"

"Oh, just a lot going on."


The bathrooms in this facility-- the place where the pseudo-self-help-AA-esque meeting is held-- don't have mirrors. Before, I admired the Georgian crown moulding (mainly to keep in the tears), but now I'm reminded that I'm in a place where people generally want to hurt themselves. It's comforting to be around people who are also hurting, but it isn't enough for me.

I walk home in the cold. It's a long walk, but I have nowhere to be.

I bet you thought this post would end happily. Guess what? It took hours to write, and it doesn't. I bet you also thought this blog would be about Ireland. Yeah, me too. Well, it sort of is. It's about me in Ireland. I leave you with a few more words from Matt Haig. These words added to my reasons for staying alive this week:
Now, listen. If you have ever believe a depressive wants to be happy, you are wrong. They could not care less about the luxury of happiness. They just want to feel an absence of pain. To escape a mind on fire, where thoughts blaze and smoke like possessions lost to arson. [...] When you are at your lowest ebb, you imagine-- wrongly -- that no one in the world has felt so bad. I could not cope with relentless self-torment anymore [...] the sheer exhaustion of never being able to find mental comfort. Of every positive thought reaching a cul-de-sac before it starts. Well, let me tell you something. Something that sounds blind and drippy to the untrained eye, but which -- I assure you-- is something I believe entirely. 
Love saved me.
I'm back in my room now, looking at a picture of myself when I was a child. The frame was meant to hold a picture of me and my boyfriend, but there isn't a need for that anymore. His picture is hidden behind a few books that I will likely never read. Maybe his face will reappear again. Probably not.

My mom and I chanced upon this picture when we were cleaning out her basement when I was home for Christmas last month. I'm no older than five. I'm running towards the camera beside a school bus from which I was clearly just released. My eyes are closed and I am smiling. I've probably never even heard the word depression. I'm wearing pink mittens and my arms are outstretched. Wide. I am running to embrace someone. Something.

In the basement, sitting on a plastic crate, I asked my mother if she remembered the circumstances of the picture. Who was I running toward?

She pondered for a moment.

"You weren't running towards anyone. You wanted to hug the wind."

I framed the photo. Mom asked why I wanted to take it back to Ireland with me. I told her just so I could be reminded. Just so I could remember.

I look at that picture now and want to tell that cherubic little girl something very, very important: I want to warn her that things are going to be very, very hard. Her heart will hurt a lot. She will get tested again. And again. And again.

...but one day, many years from now, she will see a windmill, and she will run towards it.